Serving of Arabian coffee is
traditionally associated with the majlis, i. e. the assembly of men
where all kinds of news and topics of the day are exchanged along with the
narration of stories and recitation of poems while cups of coffee go round.
Coffee assemblies around the hearth in the tent of a gallant nomad or in the
coffee-chamber of a noble citizen, where men gather to sip coffee and
exchange news served as podiums where poets, rhapsodists, and eloquent men
recited poetry.
The most
favored time for such majlis gatherings and reciting of poetry
is at night. Behind the hearth sits the host, who is continually busy with
the fire and the preparation of coffee, and is usually assisted by another
person who sits to his left to hand him wood for the fire, and pound the
cardamom and roasted coffee beans for him. A young man, usually the son of
the host, stands up with the coffee pot in his left hand and the small china
cups in his right, pouring coffee for the assembled guests. The guests sit
on the floor forming two lines facing each other. Important guests sit
closest to the hearth –the more important, the closer. The guest of honor
sits right next to the host on his right. Uninvited guests and men of lower
rank sit at the end, by the exit door, near the outside door, where guests
remove and leave their shoes. (To indicate the low status of a man, one
says, “So-and-so sits near the shoes.”) Such guests rarely participate in
the conversation, and they are the last to be
served coffee. The conversation is concentrated around the fire-hearth. The
affability of the host infuses the atmosphere with a spirit of congeniality
and comradeship.
When coffee is served, the cups are
handed round starting with the highest ranked in the assembly in the place
of honor at the right hand of the host. But as a cup passes on the right
from one man to the next, it bypasses idle men and the lower ranking
individuals who take their seat at the lower end of the social and moral
order represented by the coffee assembly. Those are not given coffee until
the more respected men have drunk the first round. It is a grave insult to
call a man ya maggab al-finjal, “thou who art bypassed when the cup
goes round.” The coffee cup is a serious symbol which is not to be taken
lightly. After a battle, a heavily spiced cup is handed to heroes who
perform outstanding feats of courage. Before a major battle, the tribal
chief pours a cup of coffee saying this is the cup of so and so, who will
drink it? He names the most feared warrior in the enemy camp. Whoever drinks
the cup commits himself to meeting that enemy warrior in a duel and try to
kill him.
At the beginning of the evening the
conversation is restricted to a discussion of
mundane and frivolous matters and to the exchange of greetings and
pleasantries with newcomers. But as the evening goes on, the conversation
becomes more structured and elevated. The transition may be gradual, or it
may be abrupt. After a few rounds of coffee, and after all the important men
have been introduced to one another and have chatted for a while, there is a
sudden lull in the conversation, followed by a moment of silence. Then, the
host or one of the senior guests near the hearth asks a question such as:
“By the way, which of you, honored men of this assembly, knows the poem
composed by so-and-so on such-and-such occasion?” This prompts one of the
guests to clear his throat and recite the poem and the occasion which led to
its composition. This recitation may be followed by a discussion of the
historical accuracy and artistic merit of the poem. If another poet has
composed a response to the first poem, then that poetic response may also be
recited by whoever knows it. From there, the discussion my drift to which
tribe has the best poets, or who is the poet most esteemed by the people and
whose verses are the most appealing. Such questions can split the assembly
into different factions which engage in a lively discussion interspersed
with choice poetic examples. The conversation may focus on the artistry and
beauty of poetry, or it may focus on poetry as the catalyst of noble
actions. If a poet happens to be in the group, he will most likely
contribute the most to the conversation, reciting not only his own poetry
but also that of others. As it grows later in the evening, two or three men
dominate the conversation, bouncing words between them like balls and
passing the conversation gently from one to another in an orchestrated
manner. Only an unpolished churl would talk when it is not his turn, or talk
about irrelevant and trivial matters, thus tossing the conversational ball
out of the field.
Making
and serving coffee is a significant theme in desert poetry. Many a poet
begins his composition with a few lines describing the details of this
ritual. Many a poet begins his composition with a few lines describing the
details of serving and making of coffee. Throughout the ages desert poets
kept on chiseling delicately with their artistic tools on the theme of
coffee till eventually they managed to extricate it from being a subsidiary
theme in a long poem and blew it up and turned it into an independent full
fledged poetic topic in its own right. Many poets achieved fame through
their coffee poems, like abu Nawas achieved fame through his wine poems.
When the
poet feels the spark of inspiration stirring inside him, he fixes himself a
cup of coffee to clear his head and help him compose. Coffee making is as
elaborate and absorbing a ritual as composition. The way a man makes his
coffee is his numas, since it reflects his nimbleness, alertness,
composure, tact, and taste. A man takes as much pride in his coffee making
as he does in his poetic composition. Coffee making involves building the
fire, boiling the water, slowly roasting the coffee beans, pounding the
roasted beans rhythmically in a brass mortar, throwing the ground coffee
into the boiling pot, letting it boil for a few minutes, drawing it away
from the fire and letting it settle, crushing the cardamom seeds, casting
the right amount of crushed cardamom into a fresh pot, pouring the coffee
that was left to settle into this fresh pot, letting it just come to a boil
with the cardamom, withdrawing the pot from the embers, and leaving it for a
while to settle and become clear. In other words, coffee making and
composition are both patterned activities, except that one is manual whereas
the other is purely mental. It is this resemblance in one way and difference
in another that makes these two activities go together so nicely; each is in
some way a mimesis of the other. While the poet makes his coffee he also
makes his poem, deciding its rhyme, meter, and opening line. By the time the
coffee is ready, the poem is well on its way. As he sips his coffee, the
poet reviews his poem, revises its verses, and adds some finishing touches.
Finally the poet, having finished his coffee, closes his poem with a line of
prayer for peace upon the soul of the Prophet.
Coffee poetry goes beyond the mere
descriptions of coffee preparation to connect the rituals of coffee serving
with moral qualities, which embody the ideals and chivalrous virtues of
desert society.
Bedouin poets differ in their treatment of the coffee
theme from the town poets who treated coffee merely as a poetic subject
giving elaborate details of the process of its making and serving. The town
poet usually ends up drinking his coffee alone while composing his poem.
Town poets did not infuse their coffee poems with human and chivalrous
qualities, as was the case with Bedouin poets who found in coffee a rich
theme, which they employed skillfully to stress tribal values and nomadic
codes. Since it was first introduced into the Arabian Desert, coffee had
become a symbol of chivalry and manly qualities. It has offered a perfect
substitute for the wine theme and the associated concept of futuwwah
“noble manliness” in pre-Islamic poetry. The description of coffee
preparation and the values associated with its serving reminds us of wine
poetry in pre-Islamic times.
From his carefully prepared coffee pot, the Bedouin poet
imagines himself offering the first cup of honor to the worthy man of deed
who deserves it; he who single-handedly covers the retreat of his comrades,
he who drives pursuers away from those comrades whose mares are slow, he who
assists fallen comrades, and, above all, to the generous man who has around
his tent mounds of ashes and coffee dregs resembling the dirt heap of a
recently dug water well and whose tent flaps are always dripping with grease
because of the many guests who wipe their hands on them after partaking of
their hosts sumptuous meals. The poet may conclude his composition by
stating that he will not present the cup to men who meekly obey their wives,
the good for nothing lad who ponders his own shadow and men who have grown
old on unfulfilled promises. But deserving of his scorn most of all are the
scoundrel or the slothful who have never gone on a raid and who raise herds
to sell in the market instead of slaughtering them for hungry guests. Many
such poems illustrate the well-documented Bedouin disdain for capital
accumulation for its own sake and for trade.